조선시대 매화문을 응용한 복식디자인 연구 -디지털 프린팅 기법을 중심으로-
분야
예체능 > 미술
저자
이경자 ( Kyung Ja Lee ) , 전승현 ( Seung Hyun Jun )
발행기관
한국패션디자인학회
간행물정보
한국패션디자인학회지 2003년, 제3권 제1호, 55~70페이지(총16페이지)
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2a600027.pdf [무료 PDF 뷰어 다운로드]
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    국문초록
    국제 패션사회에서 우리의 것이 경쟁력을 갖으려면 차별화된 패션 디자인 개발이 중요하다. 즉, 늘 새로운 것이 요구되는 급변하는 현대 패션 속에서 차별화 된 경쟁력 있는, 다양화·전문화시대에 맞는 복식을 이루려면 우리 고유한 전통복식 문화유산의 오리지널리티를 회복해야 하며, 아울러 고급화시키고 새롭게, 현재에 맞게 재창조해야 하는 실정이다. 이러한 점에서 착안하여 조선시대 전통 복식 직물문양으로 애용되어온 매화문의 조형미를 동시대 일본과 중국복식에 사용된 매화문양과 함께 비교 · 분석하고, 그 차이점을 통해 우리 고유의 매화문의 전통미적 특징을 알고, 이를 소재로 하여 의상을 디자인 · 제작하였다. 특히 조선시대 복식 매화문양의 전통미에 컴퓨터에 의한 디지털 일러스트레이션 효과와 포스터, 아크릴물감 등에 의한 수작업 일러스트레이션재료의 표현효과를 더하고, D.T.P(Digital Textile Printing)기법을 이용하여 현대화하고 직물을 완성, 의상을 제작하였다.
    영문초록
    The Korean traditional motives apparel not only play an important role in decorations of costumes but also represent good fortunes such as longevity, good life, wealth, and happiness after death. The purpose of this study is to combine apricot flower as a decorative motif in Chosun dynasty with contemporary and modern design principles. Through these efforts, Korean tradition becomes a new subject of fashion industry and a new fashion trend in which tradition and modernism can exist simultaneously is created. The apricot trees were introduced into Korea in the Koryo dynasty and these motives had the following features. First, the decorative motif of apricot flower is a symbol of spirit of scholars, women`s beauty and chastity in the Chosun dynasty. Second, these motives are widely used in our lives since an impression of their branches is very rough and flexible. Third, the accessories having apricot flower motives are made in a way of embossment, intaglio, and toogak (penetration engraving) with a variety of materials such as gold, silver, white brass, green jadeite, agate, coral, and the seven treasures. These motives in textile are in a simple or abstractive formation with gold foil, embroidery, and weaving. The center of concise apricot flower is decorated by round types of jewelry. Fourth, the decorative motif of apricot flower is found as a group in triangle and this triangle formation is repeated either symmetrically or asymmetrically with other traditional motives. The apricot flower is depicted to be very modest and plain and used as a supplementary motif to support main theme. Fifth, the primary colors such as red, blue, white, and yellow are widely used to make decorations esthetic and beat sundry evil spirits. The results of these modern apparel designs based on the traditional apricot motif are as follows. First, the traditional motives are simplified, modified, and modernized by employing digital textile printings. Second, the original handmade design copy for digital printing appears to be very modern by utilizing current illustration materials such as dye, pigment, Hanji (Korean paper), ink stick, and vinyl. Third, the digital textile design enables us to perform various approaches of a design and maximize a design effect. Fourth, it is very meaningful to find a way to modernize Korean traditional motives, to re-interpret them through contemporary fashion designs, to create a new fashion trend in which both tradition and modernity are fused together. This study provides that the most promising and the newest fashion motives are from our own culture. The ability to re-interpret traditional and cultural motives with the eyes of contemporary fashion is the key to level up Korean fashion industry and to keep up with other competitors in ever changing global fashion market. Further investigation needs to be done to explore other traditional motives.
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